"El Azteca still a Provo favorite" by KAREN HOAG
The Daily Herald on Tuesday, August 03 1999 UTAH VALLEY

There's no reason to feel hungry after a meal at El Azteca. "You get a huge meal for the price," says Eugenio Revuelta, general manager of the restaurant and two taco shops in Utah Valley. Jose and Felicitas Rubio purchased El Azteca 37 years ago - making the restaurant one of the longest running in the county with the same family and location. Beloved patriarch Jose died in March 1998 but his wife carries on as owner with son-in-law Eugene directing the business. The three eateries keep nine family members busy. "Ours is the only restaurant in the area that's not changed ownership (for that long)," Eugene says. "We intend to keep it that way."

When Jose arrived in Provo in the 1960s people thought Mexican food was just a cheese enchilada, bean burrito and a hard taco. He changed their minds as he introduced authentic Mexican cuisine. The family had to return to Mexico in the early days just to buy supplies like chilies and Mexican cinnamon and vanilla. "In recent years the Mexican market exploded," Eugene agrees. LDS missionaries serving in other parts of the world bring interest in the food to their families he adds. Also people from California have moved to the valley as well as Hispanics - both of which eat Mexican.

El Azteca holds its own in competition with other taco shops. "We have the most extensive menus in the entire valley," says the manager. "We share our culture, tradition and cuisine." Jalisc— is the cuisine style El Azteca offers. It's very mild. Jalisc— is the Mexican state the Rubio family originates from. "It doesn't have to be hot to be Mexican," Eugene points out. However, customers may choose their own tastes from the salsa bar which offers five different "strengths."

Besides a large menu of authentic Mexican, the Rubio family prepares the food daily and offers a fair price says Eugene. They keep comin' Belinda Ayala Rubio, age 22, and third generation worker at El Azteca says the family has a true commitment to its customers. "Generations and generations of people have been coming. They are loyal to us and we are loyal to them." Eugene follows the philosophy of Jose, "If someone forgets his wallet we feed him and forget it. Money is not an issue."

After 18 years with El Azteca the son-in-law humbly describes his beginnings with the restaurant: "I came from Mexico with lots of ideas and became his (Jose's) helper. I am his creation. He nourished me mentally and physically. The first time I put on an apron was here."

It's a tradition for customers to celebrate family events at the restaurant says the manager - like engagements, birthdays, anniversaries. Even after people move out of state they return or tell friends who are coming to Utah to look up El Azteca. "We have one devoted customer who flies his plane in from San Diego to Provo and meets relatives here. He reserves a table for 20," Eugene says. "He also attends a BYU game." The customer tells the Rubio family, "When I want Mexican food I come here."

Belinda remembers sitting at a table next to a couple in a Mexican restaurant at Disneyland who mentioned El Azteca. They were saying, "There's no food like El Azteca. Belinda leaned over and asked, "Would that be in Provo?" "Yes, have you been there?" "Yes." Loyal customers on vacation in the area call ahead to El Azteca and order a two to three month's supply of salsa to take home with them. "We prepare and freeze it for them," Eugene says.

The restaurant business is hard but he agrees, "People make it interesting. I don't think we'd have the desire to continue if it weren't for the kind people." Belinda says a long-time customer from out of state told them one time, "I'm sending my daughter to BYU. Will you take care of her?" "Sure, if she doesn't have food send her in," Jose answered.

Possessive of recipes Belinda chuckles about family possessiveness of recipes. El Azteca is well-known for its flan whether it be chocolate, caramel or coconut. It's creamy rather than custardy - and Grandma Rubio's creation. Belinda wanted to make the flan one day so she asked Felicitas for the recipe. It didn't turn out like Belinda knew it should so she called her grandparents. Jose answered the phone. When she told Grandpa what happened he asked, "What did she tell you for ingredients?" Belinda recited the recipe Grandma had given her - to Grandpa. Jose said, "She left out one ingredient." "I have the recipe now," Belinda says with a laugh. "Grandpa trusted me with it."

The family is equally proud of its homemade pinto bean soup that's offered with entrees at the restaurant. "It's my father-in-law's recipe," Eugene says. "But he passed it to us." A couple days they forgot to make the soup so people tell them now, "Don't bother to open the restaurant today if you don't have the bean soup." So notorious it is that Jose gave his bean soup recipe to be used when Disneyland opened in Paris. "That was his contribution," Eugene says.

Five years ago the family opened the taco shop in Provo. According to Eugene the customers told them, "Thank you. Why did it take you so long?" A couple years ago El Azteca opened a taco shop in Orem. Is American Fork next? "Why not?" Eugene says. "Who knows? We have plenty of ideas but we want to take them one at a time. We want to keep up the quality." Eugene says they train their cooks for three months at El Azteca.

"It's a small family business - not a big chain." Actually he's glad El Azteca isn't a big chain because, "I can change the menu. I can change the price. I can give it away if I want to." A popular menu item is Mole Poblano, a traditional Mexican dish of chicken breasts. "It's a big seller and made from scratch," Eugene says. "We don't get it out of the can. Tomatoes are the only thing we use out of the can."

Carne Asada, sirloin steak with guacamole, peppers and cilantro is also popular at the restaurant. Burritos, nachos and fresh fruit drinks of strawberries, guava, watermelon and pineapple don't last long at the taco shop. The restaurant is open for the dinner hour and has a live mariachi band on Friday nights.

This story appeared in The Daily Herald on 1999-08-03 12:00:00 on page C1